Blog #6 - Residential Electrical Power Chapter one

Residential Electrical Power Chapter one

This blog covers general information about what you will generally find in North American residential electrical power systems. It is focused mainly on theoretical and observational information. It is not a comprehensive guide to regulations or safety requirements. For any “do it yourself work” you are encouraged to consult with your local utility and safety regulations before starting any work.

Connecting homes to the electrical grid is the final stage of the electrical grid. After the distribution grid's substations have stepped-down the voltage to safe levels, this stage may be accomplished. Wires lead off from the neighbourhood's power lines and connect to individual buildings (homes, apartments, businesses,) by first going through the electric meter to measure how much electricity the home uses. The electricity then passes through a service panel, which houses the electrical safety devices (circuit breakers or fuses). This service panel has all of the wires that run to the different electrical appliances around the house.

Every home is connected to the electrical grid through some sort of fuse box or circuit breaker.

The overhead power connection from the utility lines to the service entrance is referred to as the service drop. It has three wires. One neutral line and two hot lines. The hot lines maintain a certain potential (like 120 V) compared to the neutral line. There are two types of overhead service drops, a mast service drop, or an underground service connection.

The service connection enters the panel via the main disconnect breaker, which is utilized during emergencies to stop electrical power flow. This is positioned in between the service meter and the rest of the electrical panel. The main disconnect is a circuit breakers housed in the electrical panel. In order for this to work the circuit breakers must be in series with the two hot lines of the conductors because it must cut power to all circuits. It is rated to be able to interrupt the total household load.

This diagram to the right, illustrates some of the most common circuits found in a typical circuit breaker service panel box. The breakers are installed in a panel so that contact is made with one or both of the hot bus bars running down the middle of the box. The hot wire for a branch circuit is connected to the breaker by a set screw on the base. The neutral and ground wires for the circuit are connected to a bar along the side of the service panel box. The neutral and grounding bars in the panel may be separate or, in the case of older service panels, the same bar may be used for both purposes.

This wiring diagram illustrates installing a 15 amp circuit breaker for a 120 volt branch circuit. The 14/2 awg cable for this circuit includes 2 conductors and 1 ground wire. A 15 amp circuit is usually used for wall receptacle outlets and room light fixtures.

Since most appliances are designed to operate with 120 V, such as the lighting and outlet recepticles, they are connected to the 120-V lines as in Circuits #1 & #2. Larger appliances requiring 240 V, are connected as in circuit #3.

To avoid trouble, insulation, grounding, fuses, and circuit breakers are used. Modern wiring codes require a third wire for a separate ground.

Because of the dangers of electricity, house wiring is carefully regulated by a code drawn by local ordinances and by the National Electrical Code (NEC).

Electrical outlets provide a means of connecting various devices which require electricity. There are many different types of outlets around the world, with varying voltage and electric current properties. Some are shown here.

As of the 2011 NEC, most new and replacement receptacles must be tamper-proof. This requirement is designed to protect small children from injury by preventing the insertion of objects, other than electrical plugs, into the receptacle contacts. Some exceptions to this requirement include wall receptacles that are more than 62 inches from floor level and large appliance receptacles located out of reach.

New wall receptacles will have two types of contacts: terminal screws on the sides, and holes in the back. The screws may be designed to secure a hooked wire to the device when driven home, or they may be used to tighten a clamp around the end of a straight wire.

The holes in the back of the device are used for inserting a straight wire into an internal clamp. The holes will be labeled to indicate what wire size they can accept.

Receptacles are available for 15 and 20 amp ratings. In older homes, the devices and wiring may be outdated and you will find receptacles that are ungrounded or even ungrounded and non-polarized.

This is a standard 15 and 20 amp, 120 volt wall receptacle outlet wiring diagrams. This is a polarized device. The long slot on the left is the neutral contact and the short slot on the right is the hot contact. A grounded contact at the bottom, center is crescent shaped. The hot screws are usually a brass colour. Neutral screws are usually silver in colour and ground screws are usually green.

The 15 amp, 120 V duplex receptacle outlet can typically be found in livingroom and bedroom wall outlets. One of these may be controlled with a switch and/or wired to other outlets in the circuit. For a 15 amp receptacle like this, 14/2 cable with ground should be used to feed the circuit.

A 20 amp, 120 V duplex receptacle outlet like this should be installed in a circuit using 12 awg cable and a 20 amp circuit breaker. These receptacles are usually found in kitchen wall outlets where two branch circuits are needed to serve small appliances and a refrigerator separately.

When using this device for heavy appliances like washing machines and microwaves, it should be connected to a dedicated 20 amp/120 V circuit breaker. Some electrical codes require circuits to be protected from Arc faults. This can be accomplished with the use of AFI breakers.

An AFI or Arc-Fault Interrupter, is a circuit breaker that breaks the circuit when it detects an electric arc that is a signature of loose connections in home wiring. Loose connections, which can develop over time, and can sometimes become hot enough to ignite house fires.

A residual-current device (RCD), residual-current circuit breaker (RCCB) or ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) sometimes simply refered to as a GFI, is an electrical safety device that quickly breaks an electrical circuit with leakage current to ground. It is to protect equipment and reduce the risk of serious harm from an ongoing electric shock.

These electrical wiring devices are designed to quickly and automatically isolate a circuit when it detects that the electric current is unbalanced between the supply and return conductors of a circuit.

They are designed to disconnect the conducting wires ("trip") quickly enough to potentially prevent serious injury to humans, and to prevent damage to electrical devices.

RCDs are testable and resettable devices. A test button safely creates a small leakage condition, and another button resets the conductors after a fault condition has been cleared.

This leakage can be detected either at the receptacle itself (self-contained GFI protection) or back at the power panel with a special breaker that will protect the whole circuit (circuit breaker GFI protection). The above drawing shows how both of these receptacles are connected.

This is the first entry for

Low Voltage Residential Wiring…more to follow