Blog #5 - Electrical Grounding

Grounding is a principle of electricity that sometimes puzzles homeowners. To understand its importance to a home wiring system, it is important to know something about the nature of electrical energy flow.

What Is Electrical Grounding?

Grounding offers excess electricity the most effective and safest route from an appliance back to the ground by way of an electrical panel. Electrical grounding is a backup pathway, that is generally only used if there is a fault in the wiring system.

Electrical service to North American homes began in the late 1890’s, and blossomed from 1920 to 1935, by which time, 70 percent of homes were connected to the electrical utility grid.

In the following 200 years, the methods for installing wiring in those homes has seen several important innovations, aimed at improving the safety of electrical systems.

Between eighteen 90 and 1910, a wiring system known as knob-and-tube, was the principal system of installation. It was quite a dependable system for the time, and a surprising number of homes still have knob-and-tube wiring functioning, where it is often found alongside more modern updates. In knob-and-tube wiring, individually conducting wires protected by a rubberized cloth fabric, are installed in stud and joist cavities, held in place by porcelain knob insulators, attached to the sides of framing members, and protected by porcelain tube insulators where the wires run through, the framing members.

In this wiring system, hot wires, and neutral wires, were run separately for safety. The system also allowed long circuit runs to be constructed by splicing together lengths of wire. To do this, the insulation was stripped back, a new wire was wrapped around the exposed bare wire, and the splice was soldered together then taped to cover the splice.

The downfall was the wire was exposed and there was no ground wire used. Where knob-and-tube wiring is still functioning, it is living on borrowed time, since the rubberized cloth insulation used on the wires has an expected lifespan of about 25 years, before it begins to crack and break down.

Electrical systems containing functioning knob-and-tube wiring are in critical need of an upgrade. But just because you see knob-and-tubes in some wall or floor cavities, doesn't necessarily mean you are in danger.

It was common practice to simply leave old wiring in place, but not energized, and functionally replaced when a home was rewired.

It's possible that the porcelain insulators and wires you see are merely antique remnants of earlier wiring installation.

In the 1920s to 1940s, electrical installations took a turn to a more protective wiring scheme, flexible armored cable or Flex, also known as Greenfield, was a welcomed addition to home wiring because the flexible metal jacket helped to protect the wires from damage, and also offered a metal pathway that could ground the system, when properly installed.

Although it was an improvement, this wiring method had its troubles. Although the individual wire conductors are protected, the flexible outer metal jacket serves as a proper ground only when the metal pathway is complete, all the way to the service entrance and grounding rod. There is still no separate ground wire in these installations.

Nonmetallic Sheathed Cable

In the 1930s, a quicker installation method was developed. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable was born, which incorporated a rubberized fabric coating sheath, much like knob and tube wiring, but here the hot and neutral wire were run together in this one sheathing. It also had its drawbacks due to the lack of a ground wire, but its development would eventually lead to major innovations.

Early sheathed cable, however, also has an expected lifespan of about 25 years, and where it is still in use, such installations need to be upgraded.

The Age of Metal Conduit

The newest addition to wiring was NMD, introduced in around 1965. This form of NMD cable was an update to older NM cable and incorporated the use of a bare copper grounding wire along with the insulated hot and neutral wires, contained within the sheathing. Instead of rubberized sheathing, modern NMD cable uses a very tough and durable vinyl sheathing. This update made the cable inexpensive and very easy to install. It is a very flexible product and is used extensively in virtually every new home built.

Along with NMD cable for interior use, a related type of cable was also developed for underground use. Underground feeder wire, (UF), can be buried directly under the ground without the need for a protecting conduit. This type of wire has a hot, a neutral, and a ground wire embedded in a solid plastic vinyl sheath that protects it from moisture. This offers an inexpensive method for running power underground to outbuildings and yard lights.

Through most of the history of residential electrical service, the preferred metal used in the conducting wires has been copper, known as the best conductor of electrical current. In the mid nineteen 60’s, when copper prices were quite high, aluminum came into vogue, as a material for electrical wiring. Residential installations between 1965 and 1974, sometimes used wires that were solid aluminum, or aluminum covered with a thin layer of copper.

Aluminum or copper-coated aluminum wiring is perfectly safe, if connected to receptacles, switches, and other devices, rated for use with aluminum, but it can pose problems, when it's installed with devices intended for use with copper wiring only.

Because of these issues, aluminum or copper-clad aluminum is no longer used in residential applications. It is for this reason, if you have aluminum wiring, repairs are best made by a professional.

To prevent electrical danger, your home's electrical system includes a backup plan, a system of grounding wires that runs parallel to the hot and neutral wires. It provides an alternate pathway for electrical current to follow should there be a breakdown in the system of hot and neutral wires, that normally carry the current. If a wire connection becomes loose, for example, or a rodent gnaws through a wire, the grounding system channels the stray current back to ground by this alternate pathway, tripping the breaker, before it can cause a fire or shock.

The grounding pathway is generally formed by a system of bare copper wires, that connect to every device, and every metal electrical box in your home.

In standard sheathed NM cable, this bare copper wire is included along with the insulated conducting wires inside the cable. The bare copper grounding wires terminate, in a grounding bar in your main service panel, and that grounding bar is in turn connected to a grounding rod driven deep into the earth outside your home.

This grounding system provides a path of least resistance for electricity to follow back to ground, should a break in the wiring system allow electricity to "leak" out of the preferred system of black and white circuit wires.

In most home wiring systems, evidence of the grounding system can be seen at each outlet receptacle, where the third round slot in the face of the receptacle represents the grounding connection. When a grounded appliance plugs into such a receptacle, its round grounding prong is now directly connected to the system of bare copper grounding wires inside the house circuits.

Not all homes have this elaborate and complete grounding system formed by a network of bare copper wires. While such a grounding system is standard in homes with circuit breakers that are wired with sheathed NM cable, older wiring systems installed before 1965 may be grounded through metal conduit or metal cable, not bare copper grounding wires. And even older systems installed before 1940 may not have any form of grounding at all. Such is the case in knob-and-tube wiring, where there is no grounding path of any kind. Many older systems have already been updated, and it is a good idea to have it done if your wiring is of this older generation. One clue that your wiring is old is when the outlet receptacles have two slots rather than three. This indicates the outlets may not be grounded.